KUBO GRILL is a bustling home for what seems to be one-fourth of the town’s population in mid-afternoon. It was, therefore, a delight to be seated quickly. I maneuvered myself around the stage, where a young woman was singing her soul out, into the four walls around us, to my stool at the bar’s edge. The scents of sweet soy sauce and braised meats lingered in the air as a kind bartender handed me a paper menu with dozens of pictures and took my drink order. Everything sounded good, and it took me a long while to decide on the three winners for tonight: pork lumpia, fried sweet and spicy tofu, and pancit bihon. No longer than my palm, the pork lumpia was flavorful in a way that shone through its paper-thin wrapper. A type of Filipino egg roll, it was packed full of ground pork and spices, amazingly crispy, and excruciatingly disappointing when I noticed all I had left were my greasy fingers and a growing appetite. It wasn’t long before the rest of my meal showed up, and when upon my little corner of the bar was placed a bowl of tofu, my excitement began. Tofu can be burdensome to dress, but it is a superb sponge, absorbing almost anything it is paired with. In my case, a subtle hint of spice and a rich dark sauce complemented the thick cubes in a way that I claimed this one of my favorites. If you prefer a truly spicy version, ask them to make it a little hotter. Lastly, a heaping bowl of very thin translucent rice noodles topped with veggies cooked to a perfect bite, tender slices of chicken, and nestled beside a sweet mixture, the pancit bihon could only better be described as warmth in a dish. Its umami-rich components lent an almost sweet aftertaste and the perfect culmination to my meal. Kubo Grill knows where to keep its flavors and when to bring them out until your satisfaction suddenly hits you. The end result: addictive. GN
Policing With Compassion
IT’S A busy police station. Phones ring, radios crackle, and officers rush in and out. A desk sergeant in the middle of filing paperwork grabs a jacket and assures a dispatcher that they’re already...
